Should Diamondback make a Singlespeed?

They're one of the few companies that doesn't, and maybe that's because all the distinctive elements of design have been played out. It's probably a "if you can't be different why do it" thing.

However, this example weighs 25lbs on the ultra-accurate hyper-calibrated scale in the Lab. (It measures to 2 decimal points, OK this is 25.18lbs. Easy man, decaf.) I know it's an oddity, I mean who runs bar ends since 1995? But they help to add more power to the pedals under max efforts.

I like it, and it's climbs/handles great. Let THEM know if you think it's a good idea.

From Response SS

Hayes Stroker Brake Bleed Procedure

Is bigger “better”?

In riding this Solo-One I am stunned by some impressions of the wheel size. If we just do some basic math it makes facts easier to see. A 29” wheel is 3” larger than a 26”. Easy math, but so what? The circumference of the 29” wheel is a little over 10% greater. This affects how the wheel feels and the gear ratio that moves it.

Feel- This bike has absolutely phenomenal traction. I am used to getting a little wheel spin on uphill sprints; not on this bike. With the tire pressure taken down to 30psi front and 34psi rear it was amazing. Please keep in mind that this bike has no suspension travel so I was not hitting corners as aggressively, but still 80% of normal. Still fast enough to get “snow globed” from the bumps. (That’s when you get shaken up enough that your vision blurs, like shaking a snow globe and watching the flakes float around.) The diameter of the wheel reduces the impact of trail bumps so trails you know feel smoother. The larger wheel has it’s axle higher off the ground but the crank assembly is at the normal altitude. This means that you ride this bike with a lower center of gravity. You’ll feel it, definitely. I’ve been riding MTB’s since... well..the early 80’s and it’s an effect that’s very attractive. It makes the bike have a longboard feel, and it carves smooth radius turns like poetry. If you are 5’ 10” or taller you should definitely try a 29’er. The difference is dramatic.

If you’ve attended classes with me you’ll be ready for the other side of the coin, that every choice has an up and down side. By using a larger wheel your rolling assembly will weigh more. How much more is determined by you, but it’ll weigh more. Added weight makes ascending harder. That added weight will also make your brakes less effective, so don’t use cheap brakes on your 29’er. Since the wheel has greater momentum the steering response is slower but there’s easy ways to deal with that, use shorter width handlebars.

Gearing- If you’re going to singlespeed this wheelset plan on owning a few extra rear cogs. The Solo-One comes equipped with a 32:20 gear ratio. Depending on your personal fitness level and the steepness of your trails you may want to have an easier gear. If you look closely at some affordable cassettes you may be able to disassemble them and have 2 or 3 usable choices for a pretty low cost. 32:20 equals a ratio of 1:1.6. 32:21 = 1:1.52, 32:23 = 1:1.39, and any lower you can calculate on your own. A common mountain bike has a range of ratios from 0.65 to 4, so keep in mind that if you have ONE gear don’t go too low. Or toddlers on tricycles will look like Lance Armstrong as they pass you.

Also- consider bar ends! They can really help you to power up some hills.

An Expert should try new things...

I was thinking about the title of this entry, and realized I was missing some basic biking experiences. It’s been 2 years since I’d ridden a 29’er. I’ve never ridden a single speed MTB in XC mode. And it’s been a long time since I had gone “full rigid” off road. (The opposite of full suspension, thank you.) I called a friend @ KHS, and did all three things at once. My plan was to ride a local loop for the test period and note the changes.

From KHS Solo One 1

From KHS Solo One 1

From KHS Solo One 1

May 1- I picked up a KHS Solo-One demo bike from KHS and took it to the Lab for a full tuning. The full MSRP on it is $679 including disc brakes and an aluminum frame. I was very grateful to note the huge 2.3” Kenda Nevegal tires for traction and a softer ride. The fork may look “long”, but it’s made to have extra height to allow for the owner to add a suspension fork and not mess up the geometry. There’s no way around it, this thing is burly at 28.85lbs with the stock platform pedals. Balance that against the huge tires and durable 29” wheels, and it begins to make sense. I took one short lap and realized that “some” suspension would be a help. The seatpost in picture five is a Cane Creek Thudbuster LT, and it works perfect on this type of bike. The 3” of travel makes a world of difference.

From KHS Solo One 1

I’m 5’9”, and this is a medium size. On the Solo One I’d advise you to get a larger size if you are 1/4” of an inch taller than me. If you wear pants with an inseam longer than 28”, immediately install a longer seatpost. Beyond that it just works. This bike will be ridden in a way totally different from your other bikes, so avoid big changes until you’ve tried it.

May 2- The introduction is over, it’s time to crank this thing! The Fullerton Loop is a very popular trail in my region, which courses through city parks and open spaces between houses. It ain’t epic, but it’s local and fun. Normally I burn off 700 to 800 calories doing it on a full suspension bike. I used 1559 calories today. Let me start by saying that riding a single speed bike is fun. Like out-running an alligator type of fun.(I realize my idea of fun may be a little twisted, but I think you’d like one too. Bike, not alligator.) For me the KHS Solo-One has three modes.
Mode A is when you are spinning “on top” of the gear or coasting. Since there’s ONE GEAR you don’t get to shift if you go faster than you can pedal that gear, you spin it at 180+ rpm/coast/spin/coast until the terrain changes.
Mode B is when the gear and terrain demands an effort from you that you can manage. Easy climbs, short mellow hills, that’s OK. “Nice”.
Mode C occurs on a short steep hill. A hill that beginners see and immediately get off and walk up. This is the core moment of single-speediness for me. You’re tensed against the pedals, clipped in, putting 100% of your available strength into the cranks. You are pulling on the handlebars, leaning into the climb, to keep the bike balanced side-to-side, You are also keeping “just” enough weight on the rear tire so you don’t roost away your momentum. Maybe you add your own soundtrack, groaning/grunting or warrior-wailing your way to the apex of the hill. There is a “zen” to that moment of energy and balance that completely resonates with me.

Aw nuts, I’m becoming a single speeder. It hasn't killed me yet, I must be getting stronger. I’ll do more on the wheel size in the next installment.

From KHS Solo One 1